Pool Excavation Cost

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Questions and Answers

I’m looking to have an L shaped pond dug on some land that I have in Texas? What are the average excavation?I’m looking at and L-shaped pond……50′ X 40′ plus 100′ X 40 to equal a surface area of 6000 ft2 and 8 feet deep. Does anyone have a ballpark excavation cost for a pond this size? Removed dirt will be spread evenly over one acre.

Posted by pcjames4
[display_name id=”1″] If you have the time why not mark the area to dig out and rent a backhoe It’s way cheaper and it’s not hard to operate.I live in Missouri and it costs about $250 to $300 a day to rent. If you hire someone they want $500 or more just to bring
the equipment to the site.
Looking to buy an inground pool for no more than $2,000?Would like to buy an inground pool for no more than $2,000 is that possible? If so any websites, companies etc?

Posted by
[display_name id=”1″]Not possible. For that budget you’ll need a shovel and let the hole you dig fill with rainwater for a pond.
An above ground pool kit, you’ll be able to do it with that budget if you install it yourself..but an inground? No. The cost of an excavation alone can run 5 grand and that will just leave you with a hole in the ground. The steel kit ( walls) for a vinyl inground ( cheapest pool) runs at around 2 grand. Then you have the equipment which with no heater will set you back almost a grand. Add another grand for the heater. Another grand for a salt water chlorine generator. 800- 1500 bucks for the liner installed. The pool deck? The sky is the limit.
Typically an inground pool ( vinyl) starts at about 23 grand installed and the price only goes up from there. A concrete pool much more.

COMMON MISTAKES IN POND CONSTRUCTION

 

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Excavation Cost Per Cubic Yard

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Questions and Answers

How much would it cost for concrete in 16’x16’x12″?I was just wondering what my options are for doing this, I want to lay a 16’x16’x12″ foundation and was just wondering how much it would cost if i did it my self or if i paid someone, and how i would do it my self.

Thanks.

Posted by vakwante
[display_name id=”1″]Simple, concrete is sold by the cubic yard. There are 27 cu/ft in a cu/yd. (3x3x3=27). Your dimensions in cubic feet are: 16’x16’x1’=256 cu/ft. 256/27=9.481 cu/yd. Round up to 9.5 cu/yd and multiply by the $ amount per cu/yd delivered. If your price is $100.00 per cu/yd (range now is $85 to $130 per cu/yd depending on location and aggregate mix you choose) your cost for concrete alone would be about $950.00. It could be as low as $807.50 and as high as $1235.00. Don’t forget about the cost of lumber for form work, excavation costs, and at least 5 cu/yds of sand for a base. Also consider renting a soil compactor and a concrete vibrator for eliminating air bubbles. A vibrator should be used in any pour over 6″ wide and 6″ deep. I’m assuming you could borrow finishing tools such as an edger, a float, and a power trowel. A power trowel is only needed if you desire a smooth, floor-like finish. They can be rented by the day for about $35-$65. I hope this helps you decide whether or not it is worth your time to tackle this job alone, or to pay for it to be done. Good Luck!

Building a house crawl space price vs basement?I live in northeast pennsylvania, we are thinking about building a house, and we were wondering whats smarter to do and is there that much difference in cost putting a craw space in compared to a full basement.. Is it a 10,000 dollare difference or a 20,000 difference.. Is it better to use that money on the main floors and maybe do an unfinish area above the garage that latter can be finished.. Thanks for the help.. Biggest thing is cost difference between basement block foundation to a craw space.

Posted by Chris
[display_name id=”1″]I am not a basement lover and here is why:
I hate to give up living space for stairways. If you calculate the square footage you lose in a house with a stairway it goes about like this. A stairway on each floor level takes up about 40-50 square feet of living space + an area of about 15-20 sq. Feet in front of the stairway at the bottom and at the top. So a stairway to the basement is eating up 55-70 square feet of living space. At $100-$150 per square foot that = about $5,500 – $7,500. Plus the cost of the materials for the stairway/railings/etc. And labor to install them. Stairways are considered finish carpentry work so the labor is a lot more than it would take to just frame in regular floor joist.
If you also think the cost per square foot for a basement is less because it you don’t have to pay extra for a ceiling and you need the concrete footings anyway for a crawl space – you are wrong. Plus most realtors will tell you that even though you may put a bedroom in a basement – it cannot be listed that way unless you have a window large enough for a safety egress and a window well system that permits quick and easy exit properties.
Our masonry subcontractor wants a thicker/wider footing for a full basement block wall, and on walls over 30′ long he likes to install pilaster pillars midway. Plus most basements require a perimeter drain/sump pit and waterproofing membrane on the exterior side. Your basement requires about 8 more courses of block than a crawl space and a network of floor drains piped to the sump pit, and a concrete floor. You aren’t going to have lights in a crawlspace – but you are going to need a couple of circuits for lights in that basement.
I like to think of it this way. If you are a young family (1-2 kids), you probably don’t need as much space right now as you will need when those kids are teenagers. If you have a large yard and you can provide each family member a space of their own and a living room/family room area for the winter months when everyone gets a little tired of being inside, then a single level house on a crawl space is fine, and in my opinion the smartest thing to do.
Basements are great if you or one of your kids has a hobby that requires working and storage space. Yes, you can put the furnace/water heater and laundry room down in the basement (if your wife wants to take all those steps).
Here is the breakdown on a 28’x40′ example: Addition block 820 Mat & Labor = $ 3,000/ Floor slab mat & lab=$3,510.00/ Floor beam & 3 steel columns =$750/ Perimeter drain + sump pump & pit + floor drains & pipe mat & lab=$1600/ Stairway mat/lab $600 , Electrical circuit $200, Excavation for basement 250 cubic yards dirt more than 2′ crawl space = $4300. $1200 waterproofing walls . $15,200 more than typical crawl space or $13.60 per sq. Ft. You can add to that if the lot does not have place to leave about 200 cubic yards of dirt. * If you take that $15,000 and put it in an extra room for a house on a crawl space and you added square footage that was not in the kitchen/bath (highest per square foot areas) you could add an additional 200 sq. Feet to the house, plus you will save that square footage the stairway would have taken up + 60 sq. Ft.

Looking for a ball park estimate on cost of concrete slab 30X40 4″ thick.?Slab will be in the panhandle of florida.

Posted by Elise C
[display_name id=”1″]Okay !! Sw-in-gr. Said his math was a little rusty , he wasn’t kidding . 30 ‘ x 40 ‘ x 4 ” slab is going to require about 15 yds of concrete ( yes thats cubic ) call your local concrete plant and get their price per yard . I figure concrete price then double it , that covers light excavation , forming , finishing , stripping , and clean up . You might be able to cut the labor price a little but get rerferences if the price sounds too good Good Luck.

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Swimming pool excavation

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Pool Excavation Cost

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Questions and Answers

How much does an average pool cost?

I'm doing a landscape assignment that includes a pool and i need to know a cheap price for a pool, preferabley under ground and around the size of 4x8m? And also the site where you got the info from, thankyou!

Posted by
[display_name id=”1″]

You've got a number of variables to contend with here.
1/ Is this a vinyl liner pool? A gunite pool? Or a Fiberglass pool? All have differing costs for the same size pool.
2/ Cost of labor and materials in the area the project is to be done. This differs.
3/ Ease of access into the backyard for excavation equipment etc. If you have to rent a crane to lift an excavator over a house because there's no other way in for example…that adds a lot to the base price.
4/ That dirt from the excavation has to go somewhere. Often it costs to dump it even in clean fill areas. If that dirt contains anything else like construction debris in a sub division that was backfilled in ( common practice) it'll cost more to dispose of. You'd be surprised what's under people's back yards in subdivisions.
This is why pool builders come out to do a site survey first before they give an estimate. Every backyard is different.
I can only give you two guesstimates. One based on a vinyl inground and one based on a gunite in the Toronto area.The backyard being easily accessible.
Vinyl: 20-27 grand. The price will vary with installed equipment. Things like a salt generator will add 1200 bucks to the base price. A DE filter costs more than a sand filter etc….
Gunite: Starts at around 30 grand.

What I suggest you do is to look at websites for pool companies local to you that give base prices for their kit packages for vinyl or fiberglass pools. You won't find anything like this for gunite pools because they are all hand crafted from the bottom up and no two are identical.
With the vinyl or fiberglass pools you can work out typical labor costs since most companies will advertise how quickly they can install them and a pool crew usually averages 4-6 guys.
Failing that…give a pool company a call and ask for their best guess over the phone, letting them know the particulars of this imaginary back yard. Ease of access etc.

Wanting a swimming pool?

But my parents don't want it. :( So, I have told them I am going to take care of it myself. We have 2 acres of land so we definitely have room for a nice underground pool. What would be the costs of this roughly? Also, how much work goes into taking care of a swimming pool by yourself?
If my parents pay for it, I'll chip in some of my little money… I know its very expensive. I'm more concerned with the maintenance aspect of it.

Posted by ErvE
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Proper manitenance of any pool will require about a half hour a day. Not really a lot if you get to use it for an hour or more.

Cost is totally another factor. Ingournd pools can run well over $20,000. With the excavation, cement, and systems.

Why not check out an above bround. They are way less costly and wil hold up well with proper set up fore winter and all. The one I've been looking at is almost a complete package for about 3,000 to 5,000. Depending on the quality of the side walls and liner.

Are in-ground pools with vinyl liners any good opposed to concrete pools.?

I know that vinyl is cheaper than concrete, but I am wondering if I should just spend the extra and get concrete.

Posted by luv2travel
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We had a gunite in-ground pool installed and despite the cost, it was worth it. You have many more custom options with gunite than with vinyl liners. The high price of gunite is mostly in the installation but it holds up better and it's easier to replaster than it is to replace a vinyl liner. If you take good care of the plaster, it can last 15 years or more before needing to be replastered. I found some articles you might want to check out.

"Unlike Gunite Swimming Pools Vinyl lined pools are not well suited for northern climates as they do not stand up well to the ground movement and expansion that occurs in the winter. Therefore, if you live in an area where the winters are cold, you need to pay particular attention when picking the shell for your vinyl pool. It should be strong enough to withstand the pressure that will be exerted on it when the soil surrounding the pool freezes and expands. Winter soil expansion and shifting can create air pockets around or under the floor of the pool which may cause your vinyl pool to collapse, particularly if a large amount of rainwater has accumulated. This shifting of soil will also affect your pool's surroundings, so be sure to wait for a full year before installing a deck or patio to give the soil time to settle." Http://www.skilledcontractors.com/resour…

"Installing a vinyl-lined in-ground swimming pool is a cost-efficient alternative to more expensive in-ground pool options such as fiberglass and concrete. The cost for excavation of the pool site will be equivalent to the excavation costs for concrete and fiberglass in-ground pools, but once that is done, vinyl is a significantly cheaper material.

However, vinyl is a less durable material than fiberglass and concrete, and therefore is less durable and requires more maintenance work: As the vinyl wears out over time, you will need to replace the vinyl liner. This will need to be done every 10 years or so, and will require a commitment of both time and money." Http://www.skilledcontractors.com/resour…

"The primary negative of gunite pools is the cost. Their high quality usually makes them more expensive than other types of pools. On average installing a gunite pool will cost at least $5,000 more than installing a vinyl or fiberglass pool. Colder climates, where the ground freezes and thaws in the winter, add stress to the structure of gunite pools, and therefore require additional steel and concrete, which can boost the cost of installation. Further money is required every 5-10 years or so to resurface the pool and correct staining, chipping and other wear and tear. However, these costs are balanced by the fact that gunite is more durable than vinyl pools or fiberglass pools. Therefore, the long term cost is about equal." Http://www.skilledcontractors.com/resour…

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Inground Pools Myrtle Beach Swimming Pool Designs Ideas …

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Swimming Pool Excavation Cost

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Questions and Answers

Can any one help us with an ongoing problem we have with a fiberglass swimming pool?

We had an 11Mtr Soverign fibreglass pool installed about 10 years ago and have no end of trouble since. First they had to do repairs before instalation as the pool was damaged in transit. Since then the company has been continually returning to repair bubbles comimg up all over the pool and they said it was caused by the pool gelcoat being sprayed on while the pool had dew or water spots and caused air under the gel coat. On proberbly 5 occations they have returned & drained the pool and ground back the lumps and regelled. This was done under warranty. Now they have said that the pool is old and if we want the new lumps removed we will have to pay for them to do it and also pay for the water refil. The last repair now has round rings and mould around the outside of the repairs (about a 100 of them) . We think that as it is an ongoing problem that the repair should be done at no cost to us. Are we in our rights or do we just have to lump it. Has any one else had this problem?

Posted by fran w
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Now is the time to consider two options:
Sue them
Get a new pool

New pool
Consider that if you bring suit, you MIGHT not win and you are back to square one plus the cost of the suit.
Consider that if you bring suit, the elapse time during litigation can streach out for months and months. Meanwhile, you are still tending a pool that is deteriorating and probably at an excellerated rate the longer it goes without repair AND at the end, IF you win, what do you win? A new pool (that's what I'd sue for) FROM the same company (whoa — you've just been through that).

I suggest this. Talk to a lawyer — what are your chances of winning and getting re-embursed for the inital cost of the pool to recoop your cost of that pool, so you can replace it FROM A DIFFERENT COMPANY?
Have the lawyer meet with them. He tells them what is going to happen if you go forward with the suit. Perhaps they will elect to negotiate. What will they offer? A new pool? A continuation of the shabby repairs to date? An attempt to repair a pool that MIGHT NOT BE REPAIRABLE? (I think that is the case — the pool CANN'T be repaired, and they know that by now.) That's a point in your favor in negotiations with them.
Listen to what they will do and weight that against what has been going on AND what are your guarentees that the existing pool WILL finnaly be repaired?
MAYBE just MAYBE, they will be glad to get out of being suied and be glad to be free of the problem and YOU — and will pay you a lump sum. The sum COULD represent the original cost of the pool (and that's what I would want) or less — but more would be unrealistic.

Hope for that. Then take that $$ (hopefully the original pool cost) and get a new pool.
A new pool will cost more now, but there are the spring specials (watch out — these may not be the top of the line packages).
The hole is already dug. That's a plus.
The old pool must come out. I think the likelyhood that the ground under your present pool is saturated with water and that will have to be addressed before a new pool goes in. Pool removal is a cost (but not as much as new excavation). Fixing sub layment is a cost (but not as much as new excavation) AND if it exists, is testiment to factors addressing the presents pool's problems. Nice to know and if so, document it by a professional photographer's expertise. Just could be you could go back to the original pool's people and say, "I told you so. We want you to pay for the old pool extraction and soil repair." They might go for it. But your lawyer will have to pave the way for this come back before you accept any money in a settlement. This could also be more leverage on them to get a settlement BEFORE you remove the old pool. At this time no one knows if the subpool ground is wet; thus use that as a lever.
ANYWAY going on . . .
You end up with a new pool, new pool filtering system (or maybe you keep the old system —- BUT it's an old system), and any of things that you have thought of adding or changing – that you have thought about since having the original pool i.e. Different deck, bigger pool, smaller, shape, ammenities, color, surface treatment, non-clorine system that is now available, dah – dah – dah – etc. Etc.

The present pool situation may be the best thing to happen.
Should be an interesting summer for you-all, Cheers.

Where can i find a swimming pool that is both above ground and in-ground (combination i think)?

I seen it once on a site but now i can't seem to locate it.
One end is in the ground and the other end is out. It is classified as an above ground pool which helps tremendously with house taxes. It does have a gradual depth. Goes from 3' to 9'.

Posted by bode
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Kayak's aren't the best answer . They'll do, but I'm not impressed with their track record over the long term, being sunk. They can be dished out (any above ground can) and a hopper made, but their limited deck space, is a real constraining factor. Don't try to pass someone going the other way, someone's going to get wet.
I think, however, you may be referring to what is called an On Ground pool. It's similar in material as an inground (walls are galvanized steel), but instead of being totally sunk, they usually are out of the ground about a foot or more, allowing for a wood deck all around. They're usually used in areas that have a high bedrock, making excavation for installing a traditional inground difficult or in a yard that has a heck of a slope. This lessens the cost of the pool overall as there may be no retaining wall needed or much dirt to move.
Check with your local inground vinyl builder, he'll be able to do one. There's not much difference in construction between it and a vinyl inground, other than deck type, the butressing for them and amount of excavation required. The kits for these type of pools can be found wherever there's an inground distributer.
Here's a few links
Http://www.propools.com/cgi-local/SoftCa…
and bottom of page here: Http://www.doneensales.com/pools.htm

Swimming pools! Does anyone know the cost of a swimming pool in Phoenix, AZ…?

And a well recommended company who can build pools? I'm not looking for anything fancy, just a pool rectangular in size.

Posted by The Answer!
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You can only get a price by contacting a company that builds pools. There are many costs that go into a pool. The cost of excavating, the cost of building the pool. Many many variations…. Such as…Liner or Gunite, or 2 skimmers or 1 skimmer, main drain or not. There are so many variables based upon what you want. If you want more skimmers, there will be a little more cost to make that part of the pool. Dont just settle for 1 skimmer to cheat the costs of building a pool now. That second skimmer might save you thousands of hours of labor in cleaning the pool bottom by helping to remove debris blown into the pool before it can drop to the bottom.

Thats just the pool. You also have to consider what equipment you want. If you cheat the equipment by getting equipment that is too small for your pool, you might always have an algae problem, or instead of having to run your pool 8 hours a day, you need to run it 12 hours just to get the same effect. 4 hours of electrical a day Even if its 50 cents a day in electrical costs, and since your in phoenix, you might run your pool all year long, so you'll spend 180 more in electrical costs over a year instead of putting that 180 dollars into the equipment in the first place. After the First year, the equipment is already bought and paid for, so there wont be any additional costs. Cheat the equipment, and you will probably end up paying for it every year you own it.
And Lastly, you are going to need landscaping work done on the pool/back yard. IF your putting in an inground pool, you need to install fences if you dont already have them to prevent accidental deaths by drowning for kids etc, the heavy equipment to make the hole will probably tear up the grass around your pool and the side of the house etc. So this will all have to be addressed after the fact.

You are also going to need to get a deck put in around your pool. 99.9 of decks are concrete. You can get your regular concrete deck, or go for the more expensive stamped concrete, or you can get a deck with Pavers, its all up to you. And the costs associated with each are different.

So you want to have an idea of what you want in your mind for your pool, and then go and talk to companies that build pools, and get prices. Some companies might do all the work, while some companies might Sub out some of the work such as the excavation, and the steel frame work.
For the same pool, you will probably get 3 different prices from 3 different companies.

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Vacuum Excavation

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Rock Excavation Cost

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Questions and Answers

Ballpark cost of a retaining wall vs lots of lava rock and landscaping fabric?

I have a hillside in the back of my yard. The previous owner set up a little garden of mulch and shrubs. It has been neglected and is now a 100'x50' area of weeds with a rotten 100' railroad tie retaining wall at the bottom of the hill. I was thinking of laying landscape fabric in the area and filling it up with lava rock and turing it into a 100'x 50' rock garden. My father suggested looking into the possibility of doing 2 retaining walls in a step sequence to make the yard more level in that area. 1 block wall to replace the railroad ties and another about 10' above it to level off the yard at the top of the hill. I figured lava rock and fabric would probably run me about $6,000 to do that 100'x50' area I was wondering if the retaining walls and excavation would be in that cost range? I live in the Pittsburgh area.

Posted by Ward D
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The average cost of wall stone is $15.00-$25.00 per square foot installed. The removal of the old ties, dirt fill, and other general labor would be addition costs. Also it sounds like you want to add lava gravel. I would warn you that lava gravel is extremely difficult to remove debris like leaves.

I would like to know if there is a rule of thumb for calculating rock removal in a building site?

I have a buildable lot, however, boring tests reveal rock at a depth of 5', we need to excavate to 30' below the surface. I need to know how a lay person would estimate the excavation costs to a ball park figure.

Posted by john s
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There are quite a few estimating guides. Berger Cost File, Means Cost Data, National Const Cost Estimator, etc.
You will have to do the Math – Calc volume, etc.

How much would it cost to get a 10 foot swirly slide from your house into an underground lair?

I asked a question about an underground lair but now I would like to know the price to get a 10 foot swirly slide from the house to an underground lair.
Btw I am wanting the price for the slide and the lair.

Thnx.
=P
ok thnx but how much for the lair?

Posted by MOIRA
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Ok thnx but how much for the lair?

Depends a lot on local soil/excavation conditions and labor costs.
Do you expect to have to break rock?
How big a 'lair'? How deep? Water drainage?
To be safe you're talking a lot of reinforced 'cast in place' concrete,
including a reinforced roof slab.
Backfill above around the excavation.
Trucking/disposal of excess 'fill'.
It won't be cheap. You're into 5 figures.

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Deep excavation 7 meters very close to the Railway Track …

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Crawl Space Excavation Cost

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Questions and Answers

Looking for company that has complete home package that you build yourself for the home equity.any ideas?We swant to do it all ourself after the the shell is done.wanting the sweat equity in it.or is there an y websites that show true modular homes not double wides?we need ones that the sell price includes bathroom fixtures cabinets flooring all of it not just the outside.

Posted by mamanana9
[display_name id=”1″]You don’t say where you want to build the house. However, here’s one example of a modular home product; these homes are manufactured in plants in Indiana, Ohio, N. Carolina, Colorado, and Iowa.
Http://www.allamericanhomes.com/
These are not double-wides. They are set with a crane on either a basement or crawl space. Basically they are “stick-built” in a factory instead of at the house site.
You may look at floor plans on the website. The standard product options of each model include cabinets, flooring, plumbing fixtures, baseboard heat, light fixtures, siding, trim, etc. However it is possible to order the house and eliminate some things such as flooring or cabinets or baseboard heat, etc. If the customer wants something different or wishes to install their own. However, if the options supplied are suitable, it is usually cost-effective to go ahead and take the factory-installed options. I believe they now supply garage modules as well.

Pricing is so dependent on such things as options ordered, distance from the plant, local costs, building codes, utility hookups, well, septic if needed, and site preparation, that it is necessary to get price quotes from an authorized dealer and bids from local subs for site work. There are just too many variables. The manufacturer that I have cited does not sell their houses direct. Price quotes can be obtained from one of their builder/dealers. Yes, “sweat” equity is certainly possible with these houses. Handy people have done some of their own work, using whatever skills they happen to have – be it excavation, cement, building the garage, painting, installing gutters & downspouts, carpeting, even finishing an unfinished second floor (one of the capes can be ordered with an unfinished second story).

We built a cape cod style modular home and love it. We did not do much of our own work however. I can see how one might save a few dollars doing some things yourself. The best way to tell how much you could save (remember that your time is also worth something!) would be to get a quote on all the work that needs to be done + a quote on the modular portion and add them together. Then start subtracting the labor costs from the jobs that you might be able to do yourself. Your dealer could help here, suggesting site and finish work that you might do. With the particular manufacturer that I have cited above, the cost of the house includes delivery and “rough” set. The “finish” set is done by a local crew who is knowledgeable about what is required with the finish of a modular house. The finish is usually not something that the homeowner would want to tackle by himself and is best left to others.

I need to know about modular as opposed to manufactured homes..?I live in Southern California so our problems are fire and earthquakes—each can do just as much damage to a regular, built on site home Help!

Posted by a_redhead1979
[display_name id=”1″]A modular home is a stick-built home built indoors in a factory instead of on site, and then moved to the building site. A modular home is built to the standard of the local building codes that all site-builders must adhere to. A crawl space or basement is required.

A manufactured home is built to HUD code, a lower standard than local bldg. Codes. Basically it’s a trailer because the steel frame that supports it while it goes down the road is left in place, just like a travel trailer. A crawl space or basement is not required. They just sit on a slab of concrete.

A well-built modular home actually has more material in it and in a sense it is built better and stronger because it must withstand transport from the factory to the building site. The modules or “boxes” are set on the foundation using a crane.

I live in the midwest so I don’t know any names of modular manufacturers in your area.

We live in a modular home – a story and a half cape with a walk-out, finished 9′ basement, done with cedar siding. We have 3600 sq. Ft. Of finished living space.

I realize that all of the above does not address your fear of fire and earthquakes and I guess the answer is that any house will burn in a fire or fall in an earthquake. One alternative, should you decide on modular construction, is to eliminate the factory-provided siding (usually they offer vinyl or cedar) and brick it. This would be done on-site after the house was set. Then there’s the roofing material. Tile?

Finally, modular construction, while it still makes up only a small fraction of new construction, is a very good method for building a new house. It is more popular in rural areas than in large cities because frequently developers control most of the land in cities and large suburbs and some have kept modular homes out because they want to build the houses themselves. There are really crappy on-site built homes – such as those that don’t use 2×6 construction. With modular you can tour the factory and see how your house is built from inside out. Also the building materials don’t sit around outside in the rain, snow, etc. Soaking up water that will eventually end up in your house. Also, there is none of the pilferage that occurs at building sites. In addition, there are no “overages” in cost, no unseen, unexpected expenses to crop up after the building is begun. You know, up front, what the house modules will cost and can go to your bank with exact figures. Our builder/dealer also helped us get bids from the electrical, HVAC, plumbing, excavation and concrete, well & septic (we live in a rural area) and garage work before we ever signed off on the project. They helped us choose who would do that work and had a total for the entire project so we knew if it would fit our budget. All this, plus the house is “built” in about a week and is set, rough-finished, water-tight and locked in one day. Most buyers have cabinets and appliances installed and bathroom fixtures installed, and flooring and lighting installed at the factory as well although these may be left out if the customer wants something that the factory doesn’t provide. Most people can find something they like from the products that the factory offers. Following the rough set, the house is then finished inside so that it is livable. This includes such things as trimming the marriage walls, setting doors in the marriage walls, patching cracks in drywall, attaching carpet or other flooring at the marriage walls. Since most people have basements where I live, the HVAC is installed on site in the basement although the factory does offer electric baseboard heat as a standard option.

If “stick-built” is the ideal standard benchmark for good, sound construction, then factory stick-built is really a notch above this standard.

Where I live, we fear winds and tornadoes. I’ll pass along this story that may give some indication of the relative sturdiness of modular constriction. The company that built our home also builds homes in SE U.S. And they love to tell about the house that they shipped to Florida which turned out to be the only one left standing in the neighborhood following hurricane-force winds.

Cost comparison between soil nail and other excavation support systems?Soil nail is preferred than other excavation system by cost and construction time. Thus I would like to have cost comparison of soil nail with others supporting systems.

Posted by girma s
[display_name id=”1″]One cost source is the California Department of Transportation (CALTRANS) 2011 Contract Cost Data book, which may be downloaded at the first link below. Search for STRUCTURE BACKFILL in the PDF file, which will lead to the table of contents. The table of contents will show the soil nailing cost item along with other methods, including soldier pile walls and tieback walls.

Another cost source would be RS Means cost books, which are available at many engineering libraries or for purchase at the second link below.

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SGS Excavation work.

Brown Coal, Open Pit Mining - Free image - 97151

http://bestexcavation.com.au/excavation-…

Excavation Cost Calculator

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Questions and Answers

Optimization Problems Calculus?

A 20,000 m^3 rectangular cistern is to be made from reinforced concrete so that the interior length will be twice the height. If cost is $40/m^2 for base, $100/m^2 for side walls, and 200/m^2 for roof, find the interior dimensions( to one decimal place) that will keep the cost to a minimum. To protect the water table, the building code specifies that no excavation can be more than 22 m deep. It also specifies that all cisterns must be at least 1 m in depth. Please help, really need this.

Posted by Colin G
[display_name id=”1″]

Hi,

Building code limits: 1 ≤ h ≤ 22

If h = height, then 2h is the length. If the volume is 20,000, then the width is 20000/2h² or 1000/h².

The area of the base or roof is 2h * 1000/h² or 2000/h m².

The area of the walls is the perimeter of the base times the height. The perimeter is 2(L + W) or 2(2h + 1000/h²) or 4h + 2000/h². The area of the walls is h(4h + 2000/h²) m².

If Y is the total cost, then Y = price * floor + price * walls + price * ceiling.

Y = 40(2000/h) + 100(h(4h + 2000/h²)) + 200(2000/h)

In the calculator, enter:
y1 = 40(2000/x) + 100(x(4x + 2000/x²)) + 200(2000/x)

The height value that gives the minimum total price is when h = 9.5 m. The length is 18.9 m. The width is 11.1 m.
The minimum price is $107,678.05.

Height = 9.5 meters
length = 18.9 meters <==ANSWERS
width = 11.1 meters

I hope that helps!!

I NEED HELP IMMEDIATELY: How much does it cost to build a foundation?

I am doing an estimate

I need a website or something that lists what was the cost for building a foundation was. Something of about 5060sq ft in flat slab foundation area with a footing foundation around it of about 2ft deep by 1.5 ft wide and reinforcing steel bars in it. The flat slab is about 8 in thick.

Posted by Adam*S
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You might estimate between $5 and $20 per square foot, depending on your specific requirements. The type of concrete you need, the difficulty in excavation, anchoring, poured and formed features, welding and tie requirements, and so on will all change the price.

According to the references below, a good estimate for concrete is about $70 per cubic yard. You can use the calculator in the reference to estimate your yardage, and get a better ballpark figure. Note that the calculator requests several parameters which you haven't specified in your question, so maybe you'll need to do some more research.

Any estimates of how much it costs to concrete an unfininished crawl space?

Posted by regina k
[display_name id=”1″]

All work is calculated by cubic yards of concrete, and other factors like any excavation, do you want wire mesh in the concrete. Do you want 2500 psi, 3000psi etc. You say it is a crawl space, is it big enough for someone to get under and work, pouring and finishing. You need to take these things into consideration when you get an estimate. It is impossible to even get a ballpark here. There is a tool that you can use to get an idea how much concrete you will need, and if you are doing it yourself this will help. A contractor will use their own estimate.

Http://www.concretenetwork.com/concrete/…

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Material Estimator Board Feet Lumber Cost How To

http://bestexcavation.com.au/excavation-…