Crawl Space Excavation Cost

[monetize id=”1″]

Questions and Answers

Looking for company that has complete home package that you build yourself for the home equity.any ideas?We swant to do it all ourself after the the shell is done.wanting the sweat equity in it.or is there an y websites that show true modular homes not double wides?we need ones that the sell price includes bathroom fixtures cabinets flooring all of it not just the outside.

Posted by mamanana9
[display_name id=”1″]You don’t say where you want to build the house. However, here’s one example of a modular home product; these homes are manufactured in plants in Indiana, Ohio, N. Carolina, Colorado, and Iowa.
These are not double-wides. They are set with a crane on either a basement or crawl space. Basically they are “stick-built” in a factory instead of at the house site.
You may look at floor plans on the website. The standard product options of each model include cabinets, flooring, plumbing fixtures, baseboard heat, light fixtures, siding, trim, etc. However it is possible to order the house and eliminate some things such as flooring or cabinets or baseboard heat, etc. If the customer wants something different or wishes to install their own. However, if the options supplied are suitable, it is usually cost-effective to go ahead and take the factory-installed options. I believe they now supply garage modules as well.

Pricing is so dependent on such things as options ordered, distance from the plant, local costs, building codes, utility hookups, well, septic if needed, and site preparation, that it is necessary to get price quotes from an authorized dealer and bids from local subs for site work. There are just too many variables. The manufacturer that I have cited does not sell their houses direct. Price quotes can be obtained from one of their builder/dealers. Yes, “sweat” equity is certainly possible with these houses. Handy people have done some of their own work, using whatever skills they happen to have – be it excavation, cement, building the garage, painting, installing gutters & downspouts, carpeting, even finishing an unfinished second floor (one of the capes can be ordered with an unfinished second story).

We built a cape cod style modular home and love it. We did not do much of our own work however. I can see how one might save a few dollars doing some things yourself. The best way to tell how much you could save (remember that your time is also worth something!) would be to get a quote on all the work that needs to be done + a quote on the modular portion and add them together. Then start subtracting the labor costs from the jobs that you might be able to do yourself. Your dealer could help here, suggesting site and finish work that you might do. With the particular manufacturer that I have cited above, the cost of the house includes delivery and “rough” set. The “finish” set is done by a local crew who is knowledgeable about what is required with the finish of a modular house. The finish is usually not something that the homeowner would want to tackle by himself and is best left to others.

I need to know about modular as opposed to manufactured homes..?I live in Southern California so our problems are fire and earthquakes—each can do just as much damage to a regular, built on site home Help!

Posted by a_redhead1979
[display_name id=”1″]A modular home is a stick-built home built indoors in a factory instead of on site, and then moved to the building site. A modular home is built to the standard of the local building codes that all site-builders must adhere to. A crawl space or basement is required.

A manufactured home is built to HUD code, a lower standard than local bldg. Codes. Basically it’s a trailer because the steel frame that supports it while it goes down the road is left in place, just like a travel trailer. A crawl space or basement is not required. They just sit on a slab of concrete.

A well-built modular home actually has more material in it and in a sense it is built better and stronger because it must withstand transport from the factory to the building site. The modules or “boxes” are set on the foundation using a crane.

I live in the midwest so I don’t know any names of modular manufacturers in your area.

We live in a modular home – a story and a half cape with a walk-out, finished 9′ basement, done with cedar siding. We have 3600 sq. Ft. Of finished living space.

I realize that all of the above does not address your fear of fire and earthquakes and I guess the answer is that any house will burn in a fire or fall in an earthquake. One alternative, should you decide on modular construction, is to eliminate the factory-provided siding (usually they offer vinyl or cedar) and brick it. This would be done on-site after the house was set. Then there’s the roofing material. Tile?

Finally, modular construction, while it still makes up only a small fraction of new construction, is a very good method for building a new house. It is more popular in rural areas than in large cities because frequently developers control most of the land in cities and large suburbs and some have kept modular homes out because they want to build the houses themselves. There are really crappy on-site built homes – such as those that don’t use 2×6 construction. With modular you can tour the factory and see how your house is built from inside out. Also the building materials don’t sit around outside in the rain, snow, etc. Soaking up water that will eventually end up in your house. Also, there is none of the pilferage that occurs at building sites. In addition, there are no “overages” in cost, no unseen, unexpected expenses to crop up after the building is begun. You know, up front, what the house modules will cost and can go to your bank with exact figures. Our builder/dealer also helped us get bids from the electrical, HVAC, plumbing, excavation and concrete, well & septic (we live in a rural area) and garage work before we ever signed off on the project. They helped us choose who would do that work and had a total for the entire project so we knew if it would fit our budget. All this, plus the house is “built” in about a week and is set, rough-finished, water-tight and locked in one day. Most buyers have cabinets and appliances installed and bathroom fixtures installed, and flooring and lighting installed at the factory as well although these may be left out if the customer wants something that the factory doesn’t provide. Most people can find something they like from the products that the factory offers. Following the rough set, the house is then finished inside so that it is livable. This includes such things as trimming the marriage walls, setting doors in the marriage walls, patching cracks in drywall, attaching carpet or other flooring at the marriage walls. Since most people have basements where I live, the HVAC is installed on site in the basement although the factory does offer electric baseboard heat as a standard option.

If “stick-built” is the ideal standard benchmark for good, sound construction, then factory stick-built is really a notch above this standard.

Where I live, we fear winds and tornadoes. I’ll pass along this story that may give some indication of the relative sturdiness of modular constriction. The company that built our home also builds homes in SE U.S. And they love to tell about the house that they shipped to Florida which turned out to be the only one left standing in the neighborhood following hurricane-force winds.

Cost comparison between soil nail and other excavation support systems?Soil nail is preferred than other excavation system by cost and construction time. Thus I would like to have cost comparison of soil nail with others supporting systems.

Posted by girma s
[display_name id=”1″]One cost source is the California Department of Transportation (CALTRANS) 2011 Contract Cost Data book, which may be downloaded at the first link below. Search for STRUCTURE BACKFILL in the PDF file, which will lead to the table of contents. The table of contents will show the soil nailing cost item along with other methods, including soldier pile walls and tieback walls.

Another cost source would be RS Means cost books, which are available at many engineering libraries or for purchase at the second link below.

[monetize id=”2″]

SGS Excavation work.

Brown Coal, Open Pit Mining - Free image - 97151…

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

You may use these HTML tags and attributes: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>